How this price checker works
The checker combines two things: guide values for each model across five condition grades, and live eBay listings so you can see what cars are actually being advertised for right now. Guide prices tell you where the market broadly sits. The live listings tell you what sellers are asking this week. The truth usually lives somewhere between the two, because asking prices and selling prices are not the same thing. A car can sit on eBay for months at a hopeful number, while the one that sold quietly through a club newsletter for sensible money never appears in any listing at all.
Treat the output as a starting point for negotiation rather than a certificate. No online tool can see the welding under your sills.
Understanding the five condition grades
Most of the spread in classic car values comes down to condition, and the gaps between grades are bigger than newcomers expect. A grade describes the whole car. Bodywork, mechanicals, interior and history all count, not just how it looks in photographs.
Concours. As good as or better than it left the factory. Correct in every detail, restored or preserved to show standard, and rarely driven. Very few cars genuinely qualify, and the word is used far more often than it is deserved.
Excellent. A very well sorted car with no needs. An older restoration that has mellowed nicely, or an exceptional original. Presentable at any club event and usable without apology.
Good. An honest, roadworthy classic with flaws you can live with. Some cosmetic wear, perhaps a job or two on the winter list. Most of the enjoyable, regularly driven classics in the UK sit in this grade.
Usable. Runs, drives, and passes an MOT where one applies, but showing its age and carrying known faults. Bought with eyes open and a budget in reserve.
Project. Incomplete, non-running, or in need of restoration. Value depends heavily on completeness and originality. A rusty but complete car with its identity intact is usually worth more than a shiny shell missing its drivetrain.
Why classic valuations vary so much
Two apparently identical cars can be thousands of pounds apart, and usually for good reason. History and paperwork carry real money: a documented engine rebuild, a heritage certificate, a folder of receipts going back decades. Originality matters more with every passing year, and matching numbers can move a valuation by a full grade on some models. Specification counts too. An overdrive car, the desirable engine, the right colour. And the market itself moves. Values follow fashion, anniversaries, and whichever models the magazines are writing about this year, which is why any figure is a snapshot rather than a fixed truth.
Using an estimate in practice
Buying. The guide figure tells you whether an asking price is in the right postcode, but the individual car decides the rest. Budget for the difference between the grade the seller claims and the grade the car actually is.
Selling. Price against the grade your car honestly occupies, not the one you hope it does. Classic buyers are well informed. An accurately described car at a fair number sells faster than an optimistic one that slowly reduces.
Insuring. Most specialist classic policies use an agreed value, and insurers will ask how you arrived at your figure. An estimate from a tool like this is a reasonable starting point, usually supported by photographs and, for higher values, a club or independent valuation.
A note on the listings shown
The live listings on this page come from eBay, and some are affiliate links. If you click through and buy, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It does not influence which listings appear, and the guide values are ours, not eBay’s.
Values shown are estimates for guidance only and do not constitute a formal valuation for insurance, probate, or sale purposes.